Gemological Silhouette Compendium
The architecture of diamond shapes
Each diamond silhouette possesses unique facet geometry, optical light dynamics, and proportion tolerances. Understanding these metrological differences enables you to select the ideal stone for your aesthetic preferences and budget.
Round Brilliant
Brilliant · 57 FacetsEngineered by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919, the round brilliant diamond is mathematically cut with 57 or 58 facets to achieve total internal reflection. It returns the highest degree of brilliance and spectral fire.
Oval Brilliant
Brilliant · 58 FacetsA modern modification of the brilliant cut that creates a flattering lengthening effect on the hand. Its larger surface area per carat makes it appear visibly larger than a round diamond of equal weight.
Emerald Cut
Step Cut · 57 FacetsA rectangular step cut with cropped corners and long, parallel facets. Rather than high-frequency scintillation, the emerald cut produces dramatic, clean flashes of white light.
Cushion Cut
Brilliant · 58 FacetsAlso known as the pillow cut, featuring rounded corners and curved sides. Combines antique Old Mine cut proportions with contemporary facet precision.
Radiant Cut
Mixed Cut · 70 FacetsInvented in 1977, radiant cuts blend the refined octagonal outline of an emerald cut with 70 brilliant facets on the pavilion and crown for fiery dispersion.
Pear Shape
Brilliant · 58 FacetsA harmonious fusion of the round brilliant and marquise cuts, culminating in a rounded base and a tapered point. Exhibits high surface spread per carat.
Princess Cut
Brilliant · 76 FacetsThe most popular square brilliant cut, featuring four sharp 90-degree corners and an inverted pyramid pavilion with inverted chevron facets.
Marquise Cut
Brilliant · 58 FacetsCommissioned by King Louis XV of France to resemble the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. Features the largest crown surface area per carat of any shape.
Asscher Cut
Step Cut · 58 FacetsCreated by the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1902. A square step cut characterized by deeply clipped corners, a high crown, and a windmill-pattern pavilion.
Heart Shape
Brilliant · 59 FacetsAn intricate modified brilliant cut requiring exact symmetry between the two lobes, an evenly defined cleft, and a sharp lower point.
Silhouette Metrology Matrix
Reference guide comparing facet structures and visual spreads across standard diamond shapes.
| Shape | Facet Style | Facets | Recommended Ratio | Apparent Surface Area | Primary Metric Focus |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Round Brilliant | Brilliant | 57 | 1.00 – 1.02 | Standard (Proportional) | Cut Grade (Excellent) |
| Oval Brilliant | Brilliant | 58 | 1.35 – 1.50 | High (Looks Larger) | Cut Grade (Excellent) |
| Emerald Cut | Step Cut | 57 | 1.30 – 1.55 | Deep (Compact Spread) | Clarity (VS1+) |
| Cushion Cut | Brilliant | 58 | 1.00 – 1.25 | Deep (Compact Spread) | Cut Grade (Excellent) |
| Radiant Cut | Mixed Cut | 70 | 1.15 – 1.35 | Deep (Compact Spread) | Cut Grade (Excellent) |
| Pear Shape | Brilliant | 58 | 1.45 – 1.70 | High (Looks Larger) | Cut Grade (Excellent) |
| Princess Cut | Brilliant | 76 | 1.00 – 1.05 | Standard (Proportional) | Cut Grade (Excellent) |
| Marquise Cut | Brilliant | 58 | 1.75 – 2.15 | High (Looks Larger) | Cut Grade (Excellent) |
| Asscher Cut | Step Cut | 58 | 1.00 – 1.05 | Deep (Compact Spread) | Clarity (VS1+) |
| Heart Shape | Brilliant | 59 | 0.90 – 1.10 | Deep (Compact Spread) | Cut Grade (Excellent) |